Step-by-Step Instructions
Execute this project methodically. Rushing the preparation phase guarantees a sloppy final appearance and potential safety hazards.
Phase 1: Substrate Preparation
Turn off the power to the room at your breaker box. Remove the baseboards and cut away the existing drywall on your feature wall, exposing the bare studs. Verify that your studs sit exactly 16 inches on center; if they span wider, you must install additional framing.
Attach the 1/2-inch cement board directly to the studs using specific cement board screws driven every 8 inches. Stagger the joints between the boards so they do not align perfectly. Once hung, apply a thin layer of LFT mortar over the seams, press the alkali-resistant mesh tape into the wet mortar, and smooth it flat. Let the seams cure overnight.
Phase 2: Layout and Dry Fitting
Dramatic veining requires meticulous planning. Unbox all your stone tiles or slabs and lay them out on your floor in the exact pattern you intend to install them on the wall. This process—often called “dry fitting”—allows you to align the veining across multiple tiles, creating a continuous, flowing design. Number the back of each stone with a pencil to remember the sequence.
Set up your laser level to cast a perfectly horizontal line across the bottom of your wall. Do not rely on your floor being level. Attach a temporary ledger board (a straight 2×4 piece of lumber) screwed directly into the studs just below your laser line. Your first row of stone will rest heavily on this board.
Phase 3: Mixing Mortar and Setting the Stone
Pour cool, clean water into your bucket first, then slowly add the LFT mortar powder. Mix with your drill paddle on a low speed until it reaches the consistency of thick peanut butter. Let the mixture sit undisturbed for 10 minutes—a process called slaking—then mix it one final time.
Apply the mortar to the wall using the flat side of your trowel to ensure a tight bond, then comb the mortar horizontally with the notched side. Next, “back-butter” the stone by spreading a thin layer of mortar directly onto the back of the tile. This guarantees 100 percent coverage and eliminates hollow spots.
Press the stone firmly into the combed mortar, sliding it slightly perpendicular to the trowel ridges to collapse them. Insert your leveling clips under the edges before setting the adjacent stone. Slide the wedges into the clips and tighten them with the specialized pliers; this eliminates lippage and ensures a perfectly flush surface across the entire wall.
Phase 4: Grouting and Sealing
Allow the mortar to cure for at least 24 hours. Kick the leveling clips horizontally to snap them off below the surface of the joints. If you are using natural stone, apply a coat of penetrating sealer before grouting; this prevents the grout pigment from permanently staining the stone’s pores.
Push the grout deeply into the joints using a rubber float held at a 45-degree angle. Wipe away the excess immediately with a damp, well-wrung sponge. Change your sponge water frequently to avoid leaving a hazy residue on the stone. Once the grout cures completely, apply a final coat of sealer over the entire wall.
